The Top End - Litchfield National Park

Leaving Darwin early next morning we set out on the Stuart Highway for Litchfield National Park 130 kilometers south west of Darwin. Places visited within the park included

 

Florence Falls

Tolmer Falls

Wangi Falls


We also viewed some of the local fauna

Rock wallaby

Goana 

It was a great day exploring the scenery and wildlife in the national park.

The Top End - Katherine Gorge



Next morning we went on a cruise through the Katherine Gorge where sheer sandstone cliffs rise on either side and are reflected in the water. Katherine Gorge is part of the Nitmiluk National Park.

 

Katherine Gorge - reflections

A short walk leads to a second gorge


We then returned to Katherine where we had lunch and had a short time to wander down the main street.  We called into the library where we saw an early copy of the book, We of the Never Never, by Mrs Aeneas Gunn. The book, an Australian classic, was first published in 1908 and was based on experiences of Jeannie Gunn when she lived at Elsey Station, 90 kilometres south of Katherine.

Heading north again the next stop was Edith Falls.

 

 

A few members of the tour group went for a swim while the rest of us went for a walk and enjoyed the view.

The next stop was a visit to the Adelaide River War Cemetery. This site is dedicated to the memory of those killed during the Japanese air raids on Darwin during the Second World War. The Australian Archives site provides information about the bombing of Darwin in 1942.

 

By the road many of the variety of termite mounds in the area could be seen.

 

We then returned to Darwin arriving around 6.00 pm after four days exploring this special part of Australia.

The Top End continued

Exploring Kakadu National Park, our guide took us to Ubirr a rocky outcrop providing views of the surrounding area. The area is also well known for the Aboriginal rock paintings to be found in the rock shelters at Ubirr. This is a fascinating ancient area of our country.

 

Aboriginal rock art

Stratas of rock

Additional information about and images of Ubirr can be found on the Kakdu National Park website - Ubirr .

We spent the night at the Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Inn where the rooms are constructed to form the shape of a crocodile - Gagudju Crocodile Holiday Hotel - at Jabiru, a small township in Kakadu. Jabiru is named after a large water bird located in this region of Australia. It is a member of the stork family. Follow this link for additional information about the jabiru .

 

Next day at  Nourlangie Rock we viewed more Aboriginal rock art and then visited the Warradjan Cultural Centre before going on a cruise on the Yellow Water Billabong to view the birdlife and look for crocodiles. As well as the jabiru there were a variety of ibis, egrets and cormorants, rainbow bee-eaters, ducks of many varieties and  jacanas - small birds with large feet which walk upion the lily pads giving the illusion of walking on water. 



Image from Wikepedia article - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacana





We then rejoined the coach to travel south to Katherine where we spent the night.

 



Darwin and The Top End

In May 2004 we headed north to explore parts of the Northern Territory. After flying from Melbourne to Darwin we had one day to acquaint ourselves with central Darwin before heading north to explore Kakadu and surrounding areas.

The coach picked us up from the hotel and, travelling along the Arnhem Highway, the first stop was the Adelaide River where we joined the Jumping Crocodile Cruise on the river.

The guides encourage the crocodiles to jump from the water by dangling pieces of meat in front of them

Watching these large, powerful creatures so close to the boat is an awesome sight.

 

We then continued on our journey into the Kakadu National Park.

 



A great way to have an introduction to the area is by air so we boarded a small aircraft for an overview of the sights in Kakdu.

Airstrip at Kakadu

From the air we saw the Jim Jam Falls 

and the Twin Falls

Being May the dry season was only beginning so we were able to view these waterfalls. During the wet season they would be much more dramatic and several months later there would be little or no water..

 

The ruggedness of the terrain is obvious from the air

 

 

We also flew over part of the Ranger Uranium Mine

Back on terra firma we had lunch and were then ready to further explore the national park.



Port Douglas - Shopping opportunities

There is a wide variety of shopping opportunities in Port Douglas and surrounding areas.

Macrossan Street

The main shopping area is Macrossan Street with shops on either side of the street. As well as a Food Works, IGA and Coles supermarkets clothing stores abound - women's wear, menswear and children's clothing particularly beach wear and casual wear though some stores specialise in more expensive day and evening wear. There are also a number of shops selling artworks, jewellery and a range of giftware.

Imaging



You never know what you will find and it is fun browsing.

Wicked Willie's Jewellery



Sunday Market at Port Douglas

Stalls to browse at the Sunday Market

Sunday mornings from 8.00 am to around 1.30 pm the place to be at Port Douglas is Anzac Park to visit the Sunday Market where stall holders sell local produce and hand-crafted items - a great place to buy presents. You can even have a massage or a tarot card reading. Rows and rows of tents containing tables selling a wide variety of goods fill the park and in the background can be seen views of the river and the sea.

Kuranda Markets
Kuranda is a village on the Atherton Tablelands 25 kilometres north west of Cairns. The village in the rainforest has been famous for its markets since the 1960s when it was known basically a hippie community. There are several market areas in the village including the original Rainforest Markets, Kurunda Heritage Market and the new markets as well as other shops and galleries. Visitors can drive to Kuranda from Port Douglas or travel via the Skyrail cable cars or via the Kuranda Scenic Railway.

Daintree Timber Gallery
The village of Daintree is a small community on the Daintree River a short drive north from Port Douglas. Daintree was a timber settlement in the 1870s and is now a starting place to explore the Daintree Rainforest, particularly on one of the river cruises. 



Daintree River

One of the shops in the village is the Daintree Timber Gallery with a wide range of wooden bowls and artworks. The gallery has a display of beautiful wooden items.

Hoglund Art Glass

Entrance to Hoglund Art Glass



Hoglund Art Glass is located north of Port Douglas via the villages of Mossman and Miallo along the Whyanbeel Road. The gallery contains examples of wonderful works of art in glass.

Port Douglas - Food, beautiful food

We have often joked about eating our way around Port Douglas.  Checking my notes about our holidays to Port Douglas in August 2009 and 2010 it is obvious that a major feature is the wide range of restaurants in the town - approximately 60 - so there is plenty of choice depending on your mood.

On our first night we usually start our culinary adventure at EJ's Fish 'N' Chips - the grilled barramundi and salad is eaten at a table in the street. Eating outside on a balmy evening is the norm in Port Douglas. We then wander a few doors down the street and select ice-cream from Shakes Gelati Bar.  Shakes is our favourite haunt for an after dinner ice-cream.

Not surprisingly seafood features prominently on most Port Douglas menus. However there is also a wide range of cuisine from many countries available. At the Jade Inn we shared dishes of honey chicken and barramundi with ginger, shallots and assorted vegetables. A Taste of Agean started the meal with delicious Turkish bread and dips followed by seared scallops with zucchini fritters on rocket and coral trout on spinach with toasted almonds.   Bel Cibo is an Italian restaurant which provided one of the best meals we have had at Port Douglas. Flat bread with parmesan and rosemary began the meal followed by dishes of hand made open raviolo with crab meat, spinach, dill, tomato with salmon pearls and saltimbocca with a shared green salad. We were tempted that evening to also try the sweets, a chocolate torte with caramel hazelnut ice-cream and a selection of gelati and sorbets. Not surprisingly dinner at Port Douglas is usually followed by a walk along Macrossan Street. As well as the exercise there is plenty of activity along the street to observe and many of the shops are open providing the opportunity to browse.

Back to the restaurants. Spencer Patrick has two restaurants at Port Douglas. Regional Italian food can be found at Bucci where we began the meal with ciabatta dipped in garlic and oil and an entree of tiger prawns with a tomato and chilli sauce. The main courses were a small parmesan gnocchi with a four cheese sauce (very rich but delicious) and lamb roasted on herbed hay with crushed potato, spinach and green salsa. Harrisons is slightly more up-market with a French influence. A serving of bread dipped in oil was followed by an appetiser of mushroom foam with peas and ham. Entrees chosen were mushrooms and poached egg with Hollandaise sauce and triangles of puff pastry with asparagus spears along with crab canelloni. Risotto utilising summer vegetables - peas, spinach, shallots, assorted sprouts - and cheese was one main course chosen while another was lamb with truffled mash, green beans and almonds. We the shared assorted ice-creams - coconut, strawberry and peach.


Finz



A number of restaurants specialise in seafood. Finz is across the road from the apartments where we stay and we usually have a meal there. One year they served a wonderful seafood basket with a great selection of beautifully cooked seafood. The scallops, in particular, were delicious. Unfortunately this dish has not been on the menu on subsequent visits though the food has always been good. In 2010 we started the meal with sourdough bread then a shared an entree of lightly grilled scallops coated with parmesan, herbs and chilli. The main courses were baked salmon with a crust of pistchios and pine nuts and baked barramundi, both served with potatoes and crisp beans. 2 Fish Seafood Restaurant is also worth a visit. Ciabatta dipped in oil was followed by a shared salmon entree. Main courses tried consisted of macadamia coated barramundi with smashed potatoes, leeks and tomatoes and fish of the day.

Breakfast is usually cereal with fruit and yoghurt and/or toast in our appartment but on at least one morning we have breakfast at a restaurant. In 2010 our special breakfast was at Zinc where Robin had the 'big breakfast' while I enjoyed slices of fruit - assorted melon, pineapple, orange, pears, apple and strawberry with frozen yoghurt followed by a Danish pastry. On other occasions we have been known to just wander down Macrossan Street and have breakfast at one of the many eateries open. Zinc is also a good place for dinner. Garlic sourdough started the meal followed by a shared entree of tempura prawns with a light salad. One main course was a delicious pumpkin risotto with sliced pumpkin on the side and parmesan encrusted barramundi. Barramundi is a popular fish in Port Douglas.

Iron Bar

Many of the restaurants are designed for a 'fine dining experience, but there are also restaurants with a more casual atmosphere where you can drop in for a meal. One such place is the Iron Bar which provides good basic, hearty food with an Australian flavour. On one occasion we shared cheese and herb bread and Robin had an avocado and prawn cocktail as an entree while another time we were adventurous and shared the Australian Trio entree - emu, crocodile and kangaroo. Scallop and prawn risotto and steak, chips and salad were the choice for main course on both visits  - the names of the dishes have Australian connections (Van Deimen's Land and Don Bradman) in the titles. The Central Hotel and the Court House Hotel are other popular locations in the evenings and the Court House Hotel often has an entertainer out the front but we have not had meals there. On the Inlet appears to be another popular location, especially with those who have been out on boats during the day, but the night we investigated it it was extremely crowded and noisy so we chose to have dinner at a quieter location. Mango Jam is another popular restaurant, especially with families.

We don't always eat at restaurants. Porta's Goumet Pizza has a wide range of take-away pizzas including Cranbrie - my favourite consisting of cranberry sauce on the base then smoked chicken, brie, oregano and rosemary - as well as the more conventional Aussie among the many selections. Sometimes we buy a chicken to eat with salad and crumbed fish and chips from E J's is another meal we enjoy.

Nautilus



In 2009 our special night out at the end of the holiday was at Nautilus where guests enjoy a candle lit dinner seated at tables surrounded by trees and ferns. We started with herb bread and then shared a cold trout entree. The main courses were lamb with pomegranate and apple pastry and barramundi with potatoes, mushrooms and spinach with pine-nuts as shared vegetables. Deserts were cheesecake with coconut sorbet plus chocolate fondant.

With so many restaurants a popular occupation is to stop to read the menus displayed outside. Although there is a wide selection of food available certain trends can become obvious. In 2009 many of the restaurants included sticky date pudding on the desert menu while in 2010 curries appeared to be a frequent addition. Many of the restaurants serve their special version of risotto and I have tried and enjoyed a number of them. It is also interesting to see the many ways in which fish, particularly barramundi, can be prepared and served. Booking at some restaurants (Nautilus and Harrisons) is essential and advisable at some of the others, especially if you want dinner a little later in the evening, but with so many restaurants to choose from you can always find somewhere to enjoy a pleasant meal.

Travelling in Europe

We travelled in Europe with Australia Pacific Touring (APT). The APT tour along the Danube, Main and Rhine Rivers from Budapest to Amsterdam with the extension to Paris via Belgium provided a great introduction to part of Europe.

A full program of activities was provided each day allowing guests to explore, if they wished, the region through which the ship was passing. Usually the ship was able to berth close to a town or city and passengers could then go on guided walks as well as having free time to explore until the ship was ready to continue its journey. On some occasions a bus trip was arranged to a destination sometimes returning to the ship at its next port of call. Cycling tours were also an option at some places.

The excursions highlighted the scenery, architecture, history and culture of each city, town or village explored and were led by local guides who sometimes provided additional information as to what living in that area of Europe was like.

History was everywhere. Many of the places that we visited, especially in Austria and Germany, had buildings dating back to medieval times or earlier. In a number of cases where buildings had been destroyed during the Second World War sections of towns and villages were rebuilt in the original medieval style. Rebuilding after the devastation of wartime bombing became a theme as we progressed through these countries. Another theme was the influence of the Habsburgs, a family ruling many parts of Europe for centuries. Particularly in Hungary and Austria we were shown buildings associated with this family and their period of power.

We visited many incredible buildings, especially chuches and cathedrals and palaces and forts. The size and decoration of some of these buildings was breath-taking. One wonders of the toll of workers creating these splindin buildings when OH&S was not the consideration it is today. The power of the rulers or bishops who commissioned the buildings is also apparent.

Living on a river provides challenges as well as an appreciation of beauty and we were often shown the extent of past floods and barriers constructed to prevent or minimise future flooding, especially in the towns. As well as tourism the river system is still used for carrying goods and a variety of large barges were regularly seen going up or down the river. During the trip to Amsterdam we passed through more than 60 locks. The river also has a variety of bridges, some very old and some modern. Some of the bridges are low requiring features on the top deck of the ship to be lowered enabling the ship to pass under the bridge. Occasionally the ship had to travel down a side canal to bypass a bridge that was too low to pass under.

The ship, the AmaDante, was a floating hotel. Boarding the ship at Budapest we unpacked and did not have to repack our backs until reaching Amsterdam two weeks later. The food was great and served with style in the dining room. A light lunch was available in the lounge along with constant tea or coffee. Snacks between meals plus supper were available for those who wanted further food. Entertainment was provided after dinner most evenings when local groups would come aboard to perform. A pianist provided background music in the lounge at other times. One of the lounges provided a quiet area where guests could read or talk or work on the community puzzle. Next door to this lounge was the the exercise room with a treadmill and exercise bikes allowing guests to exercise as they watched the river scenes pass by. An area of the upper deck was painted as a walking track - another way to exercise and not miss the scenery.

Most of our fellow travellers were Australians or New Zealanders with a few from England so there were no real problems starting conversations. Each day the staff produced a newsletter with a selection of news stories from each country so we could keep up to date with what was happening at home. Wi-Fi access was available on the ship, depending on where we were on the river, so it was relatively easy to check the Internet and keep in touch with family at home.

Travelling in a group with guides who spoke English language was not a problem. As we travelled through tourist areas staff in most of the shops we visited spoke English. Miming is always an option if there is a language problem. School French and German helped me to work out some of the written language but speaking more than terms of greeting and please and thank you could cause confusion if the person to whom you were speaking thought you could speak the language when you only knew a few words.

One thing that was very noticeable was that traffic and traffic rules are very different in Europe compared to Australia, particularly in regard to bikes. Bikes are everywhere and seem to have right of way including on pedestrian crossings. In some cities and towns when crossing the road at a regulated crossing pedestrians need to be wary of the possibilities of cyclists and even motor bikes driving through the crossing. Bicycle paths on the side of roads are common throughout Europe and getting from a bus to the footpath can be quite a challenge. In Vienna one of our drivers ended up in hospital with concussion and broken ribs after being hit by a cyclist. Drivers and guides get off first and tell their passengers when to get off and quickly move to the footpath. We thought it was bad in Germany until we reached Amsterdam and were warned of 'killer cyclists'. Cyclists in these countries must have special powers of protection as they dart amongst the traffic. Mothers with children on their bikes weaving between evening traffic - no helmets, of course - left us gasping.

Another difference between Australia and Europe is that in Europe you may have to pay to go to the toilet. Not all toilets charge but many do and 50 cents is the going rate. It is therefore wise to keep a small collection of 50 cent coins handy - just in case. Attendants prefer a 50 cent coin. I was not popular when I handed an attendant two 20 cent coins and a ten cent coin.

Travelling in Europe provided so many wonderful sights and experiences so different from home. Arriving in Budapest we loved the grandeur of the architecture of the inner city - new sites around every corner. As we travelled along the rivers we visited many other wonderful cities and towns and villages each with its own character and story to tell. In Vienna we went to a concert and listened to the music of Mozart and Strauss. At Amsterdam we visited the Van Gogh Museum and enjoyed viewing the artworks on display. In Paris we visited Montmatre where Van Gogh once lived for a time. We also visited the Musee de l'Orangerie and admired the paintings of Monet and other impressionist artists. Also in Paris a visit to the Moulin Rouge was  great night's entertainment.

Before we left Australia we met many people who had been on and enjoyed this river cruise with APT. We agree that it is a great holiday experience.