Friday, August 29, 2014

Belleville

Tuesday 5 August
The ship arrived at Belleville after breakfast so we collected our boarding passes and then went exploring.
Belleville makes no secret that this is a major wine region in France.
Like so many European town during the summer there colourful displays of flowers everywhere.

As we were exploring we discovered the Belleville and Beaujolais Rugby Club.
It was market day in Belleville.
Fruit and vegetable stalls were also in abundance.
As we were leaving this pretty town we discovered an almost familiar sign.
Back on the ship for a briefing and then lunch before spending the afternoon exploring the Beaujolais region.


Tournon

Monday 4 August
When we returned from breakfast we found an elephant on the bed. One of the features of APT cruises is the surprises made from towels that appear from time to time.
The morning was spent exploring sites in Tournon. Some went on a bike ride around Tournon and Tain L'Hermitage - another settlement on the other side of the river. Some went by bus to the hillside town of Boucieu-le-Roi. The rest of us went on a walking tour of Tournon and then visited the Garden of Eden (Le Jardin d'Eden) on the hillside overlooking the town.
One of the first buildings that we passed was St Juliens Collegial Church.
 The church building dates back to 1316 though there were earlier church buildings on the site dating back to the eleventh century. During the religious conflicts in the region 1563-1579, St Juliens became a Protestant church. It became a Catholic church once again in 1795 after the French Revolution.
Like many towns in southern France there are narrow streets, often with arches, to explore.
There has been a castle on this site since the tenth century but the present building was built in the fourteenth and sixteenth centuries. On the outside castle wall is a war memorial commemorating the lives of soldiers from this region who died during the First World War and Second World War.
Across the river can be viewed the town of Tain L'Hermitage and the vineyards on the hill behind the settlement.
The bridge linking Tournon and Tain L'Hermitage.
The Garden of Eden is set on the slope behind the town of Tournon and is only a short walk from the centre of the town. The gardens were originally the gardens of a convent. Over time they fell into disrepair. The present owner is reconstructing the gardens.
A series of small gardens and niches can be discovered as the gardens are explored.
Good views can be had from the top of the gardens.
Along the garden walls fruit trees have been planted including this apple tree - most appropriate for the Garden of Eden.

Back on the ship we had lunch as the AmaDagio cruised towards Vienne. A highlight of the afternoon cruise was an ice cream party in the Lounge. This was followed by a session in the gym.

Dinner that night was in the Eriebris Restaurant - the small restaurant at the back of the ship where we were treated to a special menu. When you arrive you are introduced to the chef and staff. There are only a few tables in the restaurant and you can watch the food being prepared. It was a special dining experience.

Later that evening a walking tour of Vienne was provided including a ride in a small train to a lookout to view the city at night.
It was a different experience viewing a city at night.
One of the features of the town is Temple of Augustus and Livia, built in Roman times.
Even in the dark it provided an imposing sight.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Grignan

Sunday 3 August
The AmaDagio arrived at Vievers around 7.30 am. Our only view of this town was from the ship as at 9 am we left on a bus to visit the town of Grignan followed by a visit to a truffle farm, after which the bus would take us to meet the ship further along the river at Le Pouzin.
Grignan is a walled town built on top of a hill.
It is surrounded by fields of crops including lavender which had been harvested in July.
Like most small villages there are narrow streets but at a central point of the streets is the wash house.
This is where the women in Medieval times used to congregate to do the washing and also catch up with the latest gossip.
During the seventeenth century, Madame de Sevigne used to visit the Chateau de Grignan to visit her daughter whose husband was the Count of Grignan. Madame de Sevigne regularly wrote to her daughter at Grignan and her letters have become part of French literature. They also helped promote the village.
Like most towns in this region a major building is the Town Hall (Hotel de Ville).
Narrow, winding streets are lined with stone buildings which frequently have creepers, often roses, on the walls.
There is colour everywhere.
The major building in the town is the Chateau de Grignan which was built during the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries.
A wide walkway surrounds the chateau
allowing great views of the surrounding countryside.


Our next stop was a truffle farm to hear about growing truffles (truffe) and watching truffle dogs in action.
A tub containing different types of truffles was passed around for us to examine.
Truffles attach themselves to the roots of some (not all) oak trees and it can take 15 years before the trees might produce truffles. Truffle production on a particular tree may only last for 10-20 years so there is a need for rotation of trees.
Other crops such as lavender may also be planted.
Dogs are trained to locate and dig up the truffles - and hopefully not eat eat them.
I found this article online describing the operation of a truffle farm.

While we were on our excursion the ship was sailing along the Rhone River to Le Pouzin. On our way back to the river we passed a nuclear power station.
The ship arrived as we drove to the dock - excellent timing.
Le Pouzin
All aboard for lunch as the ship set sail for Tournon. In the afternoon it was pleasant to watch the world go by as we travelled along the river. We also spent a little time in the gym - riding an exercise bike while watching the passing scenery is the only way to exercise.
We arrived in Tournon early in the evening so after dinner a group of us collected our boarding passes and did a little exploring.

Uzes and Pont du Gard

Saturday 2 August
After lunch we set off for Uzes which is a small town like most others in the area dating back to Roman times, however it is best known for its Medieval streets, castle and market square.
Walking along the streets you notice many features, particularly in doors and windows, dating back to the fourteenth century.

Features of the town include the St Theodroit Cathedral dating back to the eleventh century but rebuilt over the centuries.
The impressive Fenestrell Tower (the bell tower) was built in the twelfth century. It is a freestanding tower with windows and has the appearance of the Tower of Pisa.
The walls in the foreground once formed part of the city wall.
The Duchy of Uzes (Dukes' Castle) is another feature of the town.
This family castle is currently being restored.
In the centre of the town is the Place aux Herbes. Markets are held here on Wednesdays and Saturdays small shops and restaurants can be found in the buildings facing the square.
We arrived on a Saturday afternoon when the final stalls were being cleared away and an hour later the square was clear.
However that evening the Run of the Bulls was being staged throughout the town and the barriers were being erected in the streets as the bus left the town.

Our next stop was the spectacular Pont du Gard, part of a 50 km Roman aqueduct built in the first century to supply water to the City of Nimes. The three level aqueduct measures 50 metres high and crosses the River Gardon.
View approaching the bridge

Bridge detail
Not surprisingly the Pont du Gard is another UNESCO World Heritage listed site.

Dinner that evening was a Chaine des Rotisseurs menu. After the meal the ship sailed closer to view Avignon's best known bridge while the song, Sur le pont d'Avignon, was being played. However it was raining, so a few of us braved the weather to view the bridge before returning to the comfort of the Lounge. The entertainment that evening was a musical duo, La Strada, playing light classical music.