Travelling in Europe

We travelled in Europe with Australia Pacific Touring (APT). The APT tour along the Danube, Main and Rhine Rivers from Budapest to Amsterdam with the extension to Paris via Belgium provided a great introduction to part of Europe.

A full program of activities was provided each day allowing guests to explore, if they wished, the region through which the ship was passing. Usually the ship was able to berth close to a town or city and passengers could then go on guided walks as well as having free time to explore until the ship was ready to continue its journey. On some occasions a bus trip was arranged to a destination sometimes returning to the ship at its next port of call. Cycling tours were also an option at some places.

The excursions highlighted the scenery, architecture, history and culture of each city, town or village explored and were led by local guides who sometimes provided additional information as to what living in that area of Europe was like.

History was everywhere. Many of the places that we visited, especially in Austria and Germany, had buildings dating back to medieval times or earlier. In a number of cases where buildings had been destroyed during the Second World War sections of towns and villages were rebuilt in the original medieval style. Rebuilding after the devastation of wartime bombing became a theme as we progressed through these countries. Another theme was the influence of the Habsburgs, a family ruling many parts of Europe for centuries. Particularly in Hungary and Austria we were shown buildings associated with this family and their period of power.

We visited many incredible buildings, especially chuches and cathedrals and palaces and forts. The size and decoration of some of these buildings was breath-taking. One wonders of the toll of workers creating these splindin buildings when OH&S was not the consideration it is today. The power of the rulers or bishops who commissioned the buildings is also apparent.

Living on a river provides challenges as well as an appreciation of beauty and we were often shown the extent of past floods and barriers constructed to prevent or minimise future flooding, especially in the towns. As well as tourism the river system is still used for carrying goods and a variety of large barges were regularly seen going up or down the river. During the trip to Amsterdam we passed through more than 60 locks. The river also has a variety of bridges, some very old and some modern. Some of the bridges are low requiring features on the top deck of the ship to be lowered enabling the ship to pass under the bridge. Occasionally the ship had to travel down a side canal to bypass a bridge that was too low to pass under.

The ship, the AmaDante, was a floating hotel. Boarding the ship at Budapest we unpacked and did not have to repack our backs until reaching Amsterdam two weeks later. The food was great and served with style in the dining room. A light lunch was available in the lounge along with constant tea or coffee. Snacks between meals plus supper were available for those who wanted further food. Entertainment was provided after dinner most evenings when local groups would come aboard to perform. A pianist provided background music in the lounge at other times. One of the lounges provided a quiet area where guests could read or talk or work on the community puzzle. Next door to this lounge was the the exercise room with a treadmill and exercise bikes allowing guests to exercise as they watched the river scenes pass by. An area of the upper deck was painted as a walking track - another way to exercise and not miss the scenery.

Most of our fellow travellers were Australians or New Zealanders with a few from England so there were no real problems starting conversations. Each day the staff produced a newsletter with a selection of news stories from each country so we could keep up to date with what was happening at home. Wi-Fi access was available on the ship, depending on where we were on the river, so it was relatively easy to check the Internet and keep in touch with family at home.

Travelling in a group with guides who spoke English language was not a problem. As we travelled through tourist areas staff in most of the shops we visited spoke English. Miming is always an option if there is a language problem. School French and German helped me to work out some of the written language but speaking more than terms of greeting and please and thank you could cause confusion if the person to whom you were speaking thought you could speak the language when you only knew a few words.

One thing that was very noticeable was that traffic and traffic rules are very different in Europe compared to Australia, particularly in regard to bikes. Bikes are everywhere and seem to have right of way including on pedestrian crossings. In some cities and towns when crossing the road at a regulated crossing pedestrians need to be wary of the possibilities of cyclists and even motor bikes driving through the crossing. Bicycle paths on the side of roads are common throughout Europe and getting from a bus to the footpath can be quite a challenge. In Vienna one of our drivers ended up in hospital with concussion and broken ribs after being hit by a cyclist. Drivers and guides get off first and tell their passengers when to get off and quickly move to the footpath. We thought it was bad in Germany until we reached Amsterdam and were warned of 'killer cyclists'. Cyclists in these countries must have special powers of protection as they dart amongst the traffic. Mothers with children on their bikes weaving between evening traffic - no helmets, of course - left us gasping.

Another difference between Australia and Europe is that in Europe you may have to pay to go to the toilet. Not all toilets charge but many do and 50 cents is the going rate. It is therefore wise to keep a small collection of 50 cent coins handy - just in case. Attendants prefer a 50 cent coin. I was not popular when I handed an attendant two 20 cent coins and a ten cent coin.

Travelling in Europe provided so many wonderful sights and experiences so different from home. Arriving in Budapest we loved the grandeur of the architecture of the inner city - new sites around every corner. As we travelled along the rivers we visited many other wonderful cities and towns and villages each with its own character and story to tell. In Vienna we went to a concert and listened to the music of Mozart and Strauss. At Amsterdam we visited the Van Gogh Museum and enjoyed viewing the artworks on display. In Paris we visited Montmatre where Van Gogh once lived for a time. We also visited the Musee de l'Orangerie and admired the paintings of Monet and other impressionist artists. Also in Paris a visit to the Moulin Rouge was  great night's entertainment.

Before we left Australia we met many people who had been on and enjoyed this river cruise with APT. We agree that it is a great holiday experience.

Salisbury to Kent to Heathrow, then home

Monday 22 August
The morning was spent in Salisbury trying out the National Health Service at a Walk-In Medical Centre recommended by the hotel. As Robin then felt well enough we then drove to Folkestone in Kent. It was warm and sunny when we left Salisbury and when we were by-passing London the temperature gauge in the car reached 23 degrees but by the time we reached Kent the temperature had dropped to 16 degrees and it was raining.

Tuesday 23 August
Next morning it was still raining so we drove to Dover to look at the cliffs through the mist and rain before going to the airport to fly home. As far as we can tell the cliffs are impressive and would make quite an impression when approached from the sea on a clear day. It was too wet to stop the car and have a proper look so we can only use our imagination.

The flight home via Zurich and Hong Kong was uneventful and we arrived in Melbourne at 6 am on Thursday 24 August. Hong Kong airport must have one of the most spectacular views of any major world airport.



Stonehenge, Avebury and Old Sarum

Sunday 21 August
Stonehenge first. Much smaller than we anticipated but spent some time walking around the path surrounding the stone circle dodging people taking photographs of each other with stones in the background.

The stones are most impressive, especially when you realise how long they have been there and you can imagine how they would have held special significance for people for 5,000 years.

A ditch surrounds the circle of stones, except where a path leads directly to the stones.

As we walked around the monument it started to rain - again.
We then travelled to Avebury via the scenic route and arrived eventually. Avebury is a small village with a large circle of stones within a huge ditch. It took quite some time to wander around the site.

The huge circle of stones is surrounded by a large ditch.

We were given directions to view one of the white horses etched on a hill near Cherhill before heading off to Old Sarum near Salisbury.

Sally (our Sat Nav) decided to take us via the back rounds which somewhat extended the trip, gave Robin additional experience driving in lanes though we did pass a number of barrows including the Long Barrow  at West Kennet.
Old Sarum consists of the remains of a castle built by William the Conqueror

and also the foundation stones of the first Cathedral before the new Cathedral was built at Salisbury.

A major feature is the two large, very deep, ditches - one around the castle and the other around the entire site.

This had originally been a Neolithic site before being used in the Bronze Age, Iron Age, during Roman occupation and by the Saxons.

Salisbury

Saturday 20 August
The weather was cloudy as we drove to Salisbury. At the edge of the city we used the Park and Drive facility and took the bus to the centre of town. By this time it was cold and raining. Saturday was market day and I felt sorry for the stall holders attempting to keep their merchandise dry and also make a sale or two. We decided to visit Salisbury Cathedral  built in the 13th century, replacing the Norman cathedral built at Old Sarum - another impressive building.

The above photo was taken when we were leaving Salisbury at the end of the day - in sunshine.

Military flags and memorial to those who have served in the armed forces

Temporary art installation in and around the cathedral

In the Chapter House they had an exhibition celebrating 400 years of the King James version of the Bible and also have a copy of the Magna Carta  on display.

We then visited the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum  which had a special exhibition - Constable and Salisbury - with a number of Constable paintings borrowed from a variety of collections including the Victoria and Albert Museum. The regular exhibitions were also interesting and well presented, especially one on Stonehenge and the prehistory of the area as well as exhibitions on more recent history of the city.

When we left the museum the sun was shining and the sky was blue. Hopefully this will continue tomorrow.

Bridport and Burton Bradstock

Friday 19 August
Drove to Bridport and finally arrived after a few roadworks diversions. The local history centre is of course closed on Fridays, however at the Bridport Museum  we were given contact details to follow up back in Australia. They do have information on Shipton Gorge. It was also suggested that we should try the Dorchester Records Office which we shall also do from home. We had a good look around the museum with the area's well presented history on display.

As the sun was shining when we woke this morning it was decided to go to the beach.

Needless to say it was cloudy by the time we arrived at Burton Bradstock but we still went for a walk along the coastal path and observed how the English enjoy a day at the beach. Some brave souls even go swimming!

We then had an ice-cream and returned to the hotel. Burton Bradstock is only one and a half miles from Shipton Gorge.

West Camel and Sherborne

Wednesday 17 August
Next stop a small village called, of all things, West Camel (named after the River Cam) - staying at the Walnut Tree Hotel.

West Camel is another pretty English Village with the church, All Saints, dating back to the 900s.

There are some recently built homes but many of the buildings are old stone buildings with much character, especially with the background of green fields.

West Camel is near Yeovil and Sherborne. In the afternoon we visited Sherborne to have a look around.

The historical society was closed, of course, so as it was raining, we visited Sherborne Abbey with parts of the building dating back to 705.

It is a beautiful understated building with a major feature being the high fan shaped ceiling, muted colours on the walls near the altar and the magnificent windows.

We had a discussion about the building and challenges with researching history with Brian, a friendly guide. Buildings outside still remaining include the almshouse

and the small building where the monks did their washing.

We went for a walk around the shops and to warm up we had a hot drink and shared a large, warm, delicious Dorset cheese scone.

Shipton Gorge

Thursday 18 August
It was raining and cold once more as we returned to Sherborne to visit the Somerset and Dorset Family History Society  for some research. Shortly after we arrived we were greeted by Brian, our friendly guide at the Abbey yesterday. Some time was spent trying to resolve some of Robin's research dead ends without success but one of the researchers did give some suggestions of other societies that we could try as the county borders were transient at the time. Brian also provided some information about agricultural labourers that can be explored further. In the 1800s they were often employed for up to nine months at a time before moving to another job.

After a warm drink and sharing another warm cheese scone and a sticky date slice we had a quick walk around the outside of the Abbey before driving off to explore Shipton Gorge.

We had a look around St Martin's Church and located one Gale grave.

We then walked around the town

and finally called into the pub for a hot drink

before returning to West Camel, via Bridport, and some warmth. The temperature today reached 13 degrees.

Wootton Courtenay and district

Tuesday 16 August
Dunkery Hill overlooks Wootton Courtenay with its top, Dunkery Beacon, being the highest feature in the area. As I wanted to explore the moors we considered climbing it but it was drizzling and the path had petered out into a sport's field with no obvious continuation so decided to do some exploring by car instead. Drove to Minehead

and then to Allerford to view a small rural life museum.

From there we drove to Porlock, another seaside village, and found our way going up Porlock Hill, a steep drive up to the moors. Brilliant.

On arrival we were greeted by some Exmore ponies grazing on the hilltop.

The ground is covered with gorse and heather and other small plants.

The moor is extremely striking and a great view over Porlock Bay.

In the afternoon I climbed the small hill, Wootton Common, behind the village. On the hill there is lots of different vegetation

plus good views of Wootton Courtenay, Timberscombe and Dunster.

The walk over the hill continues to Minehead but decided not to go quite that far!

As there was nowhere to park the car at Dunster, dinner was fish 'n' chips in the car by the beach at Minehead - it was too cold to eat outside.

Bath to Wootton Courtenay

Monday 15 August
On the way out of Bath we stopped at Grosvenor Place to take photographs of the building where George  Mackillop had lived.

We then drove to Wootton Courtenay in Somerset.

We stayed at Dunkery Beacon, a bed and breakfast hotel with fantastic views of the countryside.

View from hotel window towards Dunkery Beacon.

I went for a walk to explore the village including All Saints' Church. The oldest part of the church was built in approximately 1250. The nave was rebuilt in approximately 1450 and the north nave added. During the nineteenth century the original square tower was replaced by the present 'saddleback' design.

In the cemetery surrounding the church we located some Court family graves. At the front of the church is a large yew tree dating back to the time of the Black Death.

Dinner was at Dunster, a village about 5 miles from Wootton Courtenay.

Features of the village are its mediaeval buildings including the yarn market built in 1609, castle and impressive church.